Written by Per Ekenberg, Founder and Designer of Ekenberg Scandinavia. As the founder and designer of Ekenberg Scandinavia, I work closely with experienced Norwegian goldsmiths to create Scandinavian jewellery. Over the years, I have helped many customers choose between natural and lab-grown diamonds, and this guide is based on both gemmological knowledge and practical experience.
Natural vs. Lab-Grown Diamonds
Diamonds have always captivated us with their brilliance, durability, and ability to carry memories across generations. In recent years, however, a new alternative has emerged on the market: lab-grown diamonds.
Many of our customers ask us what the actual differences are, which option is best for the environment, and what offers the most genuine value. In this article, I will break down the key facts so you can make an informed choice that feels right for you.
1. What is the difference between a natural and a lab-grown diamond?
The short answer: Chemically and physically, they are the exact same material.
Both natural and lab-grown diamonds consist of pure carbon arranged in the same crystal structure. They share the same hardness (10 on the Mohs scale), the same refractive index, and the same iconic sparkle. The difference is not in what they are, but how and where they were created:
- Natural diamonds were formed under intense heat and pressure 150 to 200 kilometers deep within the Earth’s mantle over 1 to 3 billion years.
- Lab-grown diamonds are produced in high-tech laboratories over a few weeks or months using advanced methods (such as HPHT or CVD) that replicate the forces of the Earth.
2. Can you see any difference with the naked eye?
No, there is no visible difference. Neither you, your friends, nor an experienced jeweller can distinguish between a natural and a lab-grown diamond with the naked eye or a standard jeweller’s loupe.
Both variants are graded using the same 4 Cs (Carat, Cut, Color, Clarity). The only way to tell them apart is with specialized laboratory equipment that detects microscopic growth patterns and trace elements in the stone.
3. How does the production process differ?
Mining (Natural): Extracting natural diamonds requires large-scale mining from the Earth's crust. The industry has undergone significant transformation over recent decades to ensure traceability and ethical working conditions, but it remains a resource-intensive process.
High-Tech Manufacturing (Lab-Grown): Lab-grown diamonds are created in controlled environments. The process demands a substantial amount of electricity to maintain the extreme temperatures and pressures required to crystallize carbon into diamond.
4. Value and Resale Value – What is the difference?
This is where the most notable difference lies for buyers:
- Initial Cost: Lab-grown diamonds are significantly less expensive to produce than mining natural ones. You can often purchase a noticeably larger lab-grown diamond for the same budget as a smaller natural one.
- Long-Term Value: Because lab-grown diamonds can be produced in unlimited quantities, manufacturing costs tend to decrease as technology advances. Natural diamonds, on the other hand, have a finite supply in nature, which historically helps them retain their economic value better over time.
To me, however, the true value of a piece of jewellery is not measured solely by carat weight or resale value — it lies in the personal value and the emotional memories you attach to the stone.
5. Ethics and Environment – Which is actually better?
There is no simple "black or white" answer, as both options have distinct advantages and trade-offs:
- Ethics: Lab-grown diamonds provide a 100% guarantee that the stone is free from conflict zones or human suffering. At the same time, the regulated natural diamond trade today provides vital jobs and community development in many developing nations.
- Environmental Impact: Lab-grown diamonds do not require open-pit mining or land displacement. However, they require immense amounts of electricity. If the lab operates on fossil fuels, its carbon footprint can be high, whereas labs powered by renewable energy (like solar or hydro) have a very low environmental impact.
6. Are there certificates for both options?
Yes, absolutely. Independent gemmological institutes such as the GIA (Gemological Institute of America) and the IGI (International Gemological Institute) certify both natural and lab-grown diamonds.
The certificate details the exact quality parameters (4 Cs) and always clearly states whether the diamond is Natural or Laboratory-Grown. Lab-grown diamonds also typically feature an invisible laser inscription on the girdle confirming their origin.
7. What do we use at Ekenberg Scandinavia?
Our customers have different preferences when choosing between a natural or a lab-grown diamond. For us at Ekenberg Scandinavia, the most important thing is that the jewellery feels completely right for you to wear — which is why we offer both options.
- Natural diamonds as standard: Unless otherwise requested upon purchase, our jewellery comes with high-quality natural diamonds.
- GIA Certificate: For all diamonds over 0.3 carats, an official certificate from the GIA (Gemological Institute of America) is included, guaranteeing the stone’s authenticity and quality.
Summary
Whether you are drawn to the billion-year history of a natural diamond or the modern innovation of a lab-grown diamond, the most important thing is that you choose a stone that resonates with your heart.
Do you have questions about our diamonds, or would you like guidance in choosing the right piece? Feel free to contact us at Ekenberg Scandinavia!
